Vercors Week: Day 7 – Grotte de Bournillon

Connor, Scott, Tom

The rest had been up at the crack of dawn to get their hire car back before their flight, but with most of the cleaning done last night there wasn’t too much for the three of us to do – mostly bagging up leftovers (must plan better next time). 

We checked out and headed down to the Bourne Gorge once again to park up next to the EDF station and the start of the steep walk up into the picturesque Jurassic Park combe, complete with its 360m waterfall ab dominating the valley. We were glad of the shade of the humongous porch of the cave, and all felt dizzy trying to look up, or even in front of us to figure out the scale of the footbridge and bystanders in the entrance up ahead.

We leapt over the barrier at the end of the bridge, and made the traverse around a very deep lake. There are decent bolts here in case it were ever used for a novice trip in future. Through the eyehole network we went to emerge into the huge proportions of the entrance area. This was a knackering scramble up huge boulders, and we were already sweating profusely from the 36 degree temperatures outside. The roof closed down a little as we got to the top of the rubble pile, and the cave continued as rock-hopping at a high level for most of the rest of the way.

Some nice stals and bosses in the Village Negre broke up what was a bit of a monotonous trip. At the end, the siphon temporaire seemed to be closed, leaving us not much in the way of options but to make our way back out. Maybe we’d been spoiled by the other caves this week, but the entrance area is certainly worth seeing alone.

After getting back down to the car and changing, it was down to the plains for a supermarket stock-up – it was non-stop through to Staveley from here. With only really a petrol stop on the way up France, we once again made good time up France through the power of energy drinks and some minor medication, and managed to get on an earlier train. Other than part of the M25 being closed, Scott chugged us back through the endless average speed zones and back to the familiarity of our tiny part of the caving world.

Vercors Week: Day 5 – Canyon de Furon 1 & Grotte de Bournillon

Canyon de Furon I

Connor, Scott, Steve, Tom

Furon had been on our list when discussing last night as an alternative to the initial choice of the Ecouges, as some of the others wanted a rest day but also wanted to Ecouge. We did our research and again with it being just 8 minutes from the house, it won out as the option for a lazy lunchtime start. We timed it just right, with the morning guided groups just exiting, and the afternoon groups starting as we finished.

We were blown away that the parking spot had not only a large topo printed on a sign with notes, but also a toilet! We slapped our gear on in the scorching sun and headed quickly down to the shade of the forest at the start of the canyon. We rigged the first 11m drop for most of us, with Connor choosing to jump it. Down another short drop then we were into a long (15 minute) wander among boulders with little action. We still managed to find a few splashes and tunnels along the way though.

Next the obstacles started appearing as the walls of the gorge closed in and we entered the ‘Furon Express’ – a quick fire series of fun slides and jumps, with some abs in the mix. We had a great do and highly rated it! The final 8-9m drop was abseiled by all except Scott and Connor who decided to brave a jump, and lived to tell the tale. An ‘X’ scratched into the canyon wall and the start of a staple route out signalled the end all too soon, and we began the sweaty 40 minute slog back up to the car park, just in time for Scott and Connor to critique an instructor from the safety of the bridge above.

Grotte de Bournillon hike

I was due to begin my trip home in the evening, and I didn’t want to take wet kit home, so a gentle stroll seemed in order.  We found the turn-off to the hydro-electric plant on the way to the massive amphitheatre of Bournillion.  We were going to park near the plant, but there was a notice saying ROUTE BARRÉ so we parked on the road, only to notice that it went on to say … A 1KM.  Never mind, it was a pleasant downhill walk to the river, then a sweaty uphill hike towards the cave entrance.  As we got closer, the tiny ribbons of water falling down the cliff face were revealed to be a sizeable river emerging from a 350m vertical drop.  The cave entrance was suitably impressive, and the twittering of bats was noticeable, though they were too high up to see properly.  Not being properly equipped, we didn’t really go into the cave, but enjoyed our lunch in the shade of the entrance before heading back and stopping for a welcome ice-cream at the Charanches show cave.

Jason, John, Miranda, Yolanda

Vercors Week: Day 4 – Grotte de Gournier

Connor, Jason, John, Miranda, Scott, Steve, Tom, Yolanda

This trip had had its fair share of planning effort too, and we parked up at the Choranche show cave fully equipped with a 2 person inflatable, a high capacity pump, half a paddle and…some 1mm jute twine.

We inflated our boat at the car and awkwardly wound through the ticket office and onto the path skirting the combe towards the Gournier entrance. As usual, we enjoyed the curious stares of onlookers as we fannied around trying to find a way that our twine wouldn’t just snap instantly, and would be haulable from both sides. I’m not entirely sure what system was constructed in the end, I enjoyed just being cargo.

At the far side of the entrance lake, a couple of staples and a polished climb led up via 4 rigged ropes, to a wide shelf and the start of a traverse through a high-level eyehole that marked the beginning of the fossil series. We made a bit of an error in assuming that at least one of those ropes was in-situ, and failed to rig our own (if the ancient bolts would even have fitted one more set of rigging on?). We’d also made an error in judgement by convincing ourselves that only cowstails were needed on this trip, for traverses. By the time we’d bumbled up the staples and ropes using them as handlines, most of us already regretted the decision not to carry full SRT kits, and vowed we’d always take a full kit or no kit in future.

But that was a problem for later KCC, because right now we were stomping along the high-level fossil series enjoying the increasingly stunning formations, with tons of photo opportunities. We eventually reached the beautiful gour pools and flowstone of the Salle des Fontaines. After a while admiring it, John and Miranda decided to make their way out, and the rest of us pressed on to the first access point down to the active streamway, after a quick snack break.

As we reached the streamway we immediately realised it was something special. We were all excitedly bounding our way upstream, through pools, around traverses trying to keep dry, before Steve canonballed into a deep pool sending water over everyone and we embraced the canyon-like nature of this part of the trip. Many of us had decided this was our new favourite streamway

Eventually reaching a stapled traverse above a deep pool, we ditched some gear and headed upwards. Once again another deep pool opened in front of us, with the only option now to swim round the corner. Jason and Yolanda were already getting chilly so started making their way slowly back. We leapt into the piscine, around the corner and on to a rising stapled route avoiding a cascade. At the top, as more deep water revealed itself, enthusiasm began to wane and people began turning back to catch up with Jason and Yolanda. Eventually we were all heading back out, and after winding back up the access funnel and refuelling, we stomped quickly for the exit.

As we reached the traverse, we caught another group up. They were the final ones exiting the cave other than us, and were de-rigging…the last remaining ‘in-situ’ traverse line. Thankfully, Scott and Connor had brought a 25m out of sheer forethought, and we re-rigged it behind the Belgian team, shuffled our way across to the ledge and de-rigged behind ourselves, ready to re-rig it for the descent to the boats on various Piranas/Fig 8s.

John and Miranda, on their way out, had befriended some lads from the Shepton Mallet, and they’d kindly offered to swim our boat back into the porch after John and Miranda had made their exit. So we were quite surprised to find it sat waiting for us, all moored up. We tried to rig a system with our slightly-too-short-for-the-job rope, involved Steve dangling on a tiny ledge halfway out of the lake. Two by two we made our way back across, ready to pack up, deflate, and wander back to the empty car park for a late evening finish, a drive back up the gorge to our waiting pizzas etc. polishing off a lovely day.

Vercors Week: Day 3 – Mountain Karting and Day-off BBQ

Connor, Jason, John, Miranda, Scott, Steve, Tom, Yolanda

The day started for Tom with a 6am call from Steve requesting their pickup from Molieres – they’d survived and were making a brew in the car park. 45 minutes later he pulled up to see two corpses, Steve laid on the gravel covered in an emergency blanket, and Connor half asleep propped up against a fencepost. Their various kit items were strewn across the car park in a semi-orderly way as if their organisational obsessions had started a job their bodies couldn’t finish. They scooped it up and piled into the car and we headed down to base camp to sign them out, and chauffeur them back to a well deserved cuppa and nap.

A lazy morning followed as we nursed our aches and battered gear, then ideas began circulating about using the gondola at Villard for an easy downward walk. It was then revealed that we could Mountain Kart down from the gondola, arms were twisted and everyone committed.

We headed up to the car park and bought our tickets, the sun now beaming much hotter than we’d had so far. The kart man wasn’t happy with Jason’s sandles and sent him to get a refund and a passenger ticket instead. The rest were given silly net hats and briefed in Franglish.

We headed up in the gondola to some lovely views at Cote 2000 (which was a lie, being more like 1850m up). We lined up and battle commenced. Overtakes, off-roading and some powersliding saw us all speed down the final hill to the finish line…but where was Yolanda? Steve helpfully told the staff ‘Un person perdu’ (‘One person lost’) as if reading out the survival stats for our group. The chap got us to wait 10 minutes, after which a search and rescue guy came over to take a description of her and quiz us about her driving style.

A nervous wait that was soothed by ice creams, when suddenly Yolanda appeared bedraggled across the plaza dragging her Kart. She’d taken a wrong turn it seemed, ending up on a steep boulder track, and had finally realised this when the track started going uphill. A lady pointed her towards a different track down to town, and she’d popped out on the other side of some apartment blocks. She was rewarded with an ice cream, and we decided we’d had enough adrenaline for the day. 

We split up, with Tom, Scott, Connor and Steve heading to Croque Montagne for some extreme shopping via the stunning Bourne Gorges, while the others headed to Intermarche to stock up on BBQ goodies. Due to poor planning, we’d failed to leave the house keys with them though, and they began dehydrating while locked out. In an act of empathy Steve got their minds off their thirst with orders to pre-light the BBQ.

Tasty meal and a lazy evening, with boat preparation and an earlyish night ready for tomorrow’s planned trip – the Grotte de Gournier.

Vercors Week: Day 2 – Gouffre Berger

Connor, Jason, John, Miranda, Scott, Steve, Tom, Yolanda

The big B was upon us. Connor and Steve had their meticulously packed bags ready and weighed ready for their attempt on -1100m. The rest of us were to go for Camp 1 at -500m. Final meals had been eaten and we headed out for everything we’d been training for and stressing over for the last couple of months.

We’d chosen a leisurely start time of 9am when registering our trip at Base Camp, and trundled up the slow and battered road to Parking des Molieres. Thick mist and the ringing of cow bells greeted us as we got changed, and we headed off.

Yolanda’s cow phobia was rampant as we wove between a herd on the track, but we soon cleared them and headed into the murky and eerie forest for some extended route-finding. Just as we began to doubt our directions, the word ‘Gouffre’ scratched onto a wooden post pointed us onto the caver’s trail that winds through the overgrown lapiaz to reach the entrance. For future reference, the route is roughly: North from the car park along the grassy ridge; after it begins descending towards woods, take a right and head downhill. Follow yellow and green painted route markers until you reach a signpost in the woods showing you’re at Lapiaz. From here, take the downhill path and after a few minutes, a wooden signpost with ‘Gouffre’ scratched on marks the caver’s path – then just follow the cairns.

Team -500

After letting the bottoming team head in first, we followed them down the short entrance doline pitch, through a slot onto the Puits de Ruiz. Connor’s calls of ‘Rope Free’ at least 3 pitches ahead of us rang on deaf ears. After this, the Holiday Jumps lead down broken pitches to emerge on a ledge above the Puits du Cairn. At this point, Scott wasn’t feeling it and beat a hasty retreat for some hiking and car sleeping, taking Tom’s sandwiches with him in his Daren drum.

We descended to the cairn at the bottom of the pitch and recongregated, dropping off a bottle of isotonic and some cashews for our later selves. From here, things were set to get a little more awkward as we entered the Meanders – a few hundred metres of traversing in a tall meander, getting higher and higher above the floor. There were traverse lines in for most of it, but this wasn’t a huge relief when the footholds ran out. But nobody had a particularly wretched time, on the way in at least…

Miranda chirped happy noises as she declared we’d reached the end of the meanders, and we were now at the head of the Puits Garby. This 38m was fairly straightforward with a nice take-off from a solid little trough, although Tom had issues with the 9mm rope sliding too quickly through his Stop – no need to touch the lever, both hands were holding the tail end trying to slow it down.

At the base of Garby, it was straight back into another meander, this time with the occasional wooden stemple, which were actually quite annoying as they trapped any dangling tackle sacks. This meander was also a little spooky, with the traverse line ending in the middle to leave you to trust your footing above the yawning drops below. This too ended though, with a welcome traverse line appearing, which descended grubbily to the head of the Gontards pitch.

The rest of the entrance series followed in quick sucession, down a few short pitches and to the slightly spooky head of the Puits Aldo. This involved some minor acrobatics to get out to the hang, a 42 metre drop down a lovely gaping shaft.

Happy to be down all the bigger stuff, we wound our way through the short passage at the base to emerge into the humongous Grand Galerie. It was a great time for a quick refuel, Miranda’s Babybels supplementing Tom’s lack of sandwich planning.

The character of this half of the trip was obviously different, weaving among rocks in vast passage, occasionally following the Starless River as it wound into the depths. We soon reached the empty Lac Cadou which was just a basin of slippery horrid mud, then on into the Salle Bourgin for our first taste of reaaally big stals. After a few photos we continued on to meet 3 short easy pitches which spat us out into the top of the Grand Eboulis (Great Rubble Heap). This was just a bit of scree and boulder-hopping steeply downwards, and we knew the lowest point of the trip awaited us.

We arrived at Camp 1, not sure what to expect but it was probably more than 3 tarps hung over ropes, sitting empty. Where was the memory foam? It was a good job we’d opted for the shorter trip.

Then it was time to admire the Salle des Treize, with its amazing stal columns and green gour pools. Tom snuck on down a handline climb to ensure he’d definitely passed the -500m mark, then we perched by the pools for a Mars and some hydration. Now our real hard work would begin…

It seemed much longer and more knackering progressing up the large master cave, which made sense given that we were ascending around 250m during this part, 90% without rope. At the Petit General, the team we’d bumped into lower down had pulled the rope up through the deviation a little too far, and it was only by climbing partway up the cascade and standing on tiptoes that Tom managed to get it back down. Onwards and upwards, and we caught the other team up by the bottom of Aldo. Tom rudely overtook them, with the thought of getting Aldo behind him overriding all etiquette. After a wait at the top for them to re-overtake and the rest of Team -500 to ascend, we continued on our way up the short pitches and the Gontard, which marked the start of the tricky 2nd Meanders.

These were rather disgusting on the way out, with a few awkward and exposed moves from the top of Gontard before the traverse line abruptly ends for no particular reason, and again it was good to get these and the stemples behind us to reach Garby. The last biggish pitch to get out of the way, and it seemed to tire us all a lot more than expected given how many hours we’d now been going at it. And then it was the first Meanders left to struggle along. We were swamped with relief upon reaching the cairn, as it was only an easy succession of shorter pitches separating us from the surface now.

That said, they were still exhausting and particularly when having to pass the rebelay on the Ruiz, arm strength was really starting to wane. But Scott’s friendly face peering down the entrance doline was a welcome sight and encouraged us all up the entrance pitch, and with a deep sigh of relief we signed out. By this point it was dark, although Scott’s now intimate knowledge of the route led us unerringly back to the car, although not without us all whinging from sheer exhaustion. After signing out at a ghostly quiet base camp, we headed back for post-midnight snacking, a celebratory beer and we all slept fantastically.

Video of the Team -500 trip:

Just starting – keen and raring to go…

 

… 11 hours later: Completely Bergered!

 

Team -1100

Having walked in together as a group and enjoying the usual walk chat, we couldn’t help but think that in 12hrs time we would be having very different experiences. Team -500 would probably be aching but enjoying the local wine and food, then Steve and I would be ascending from the bottom, just us two dreaming of the very same thing. 

As we reached the surface camp, we all kitted up sorted kit out for the last time before heading down, then in short words said “see you in a bit” to the others. We were quickly pulled back by Miranda for a team photo, (it kind of reminded me of something mum would do on your first day starting upper school) then we made first decent of the entrance pitch. Time in 1030hrs. Descending just a couple in and growing distance from Tom who followed behind us, the calls for “rope free” turned more into distant mumbles and as Steve dropped his first bottle at the base of the Cairn pitch, we separated off from the other into the meanders.

After battling some awkward moves and shuffles through the narrow rifts with some slightly concerning empty voids below, we soon arrived at Garby’s Pitch where we realised the cave had a lot to offer, pretty much all three pitches grew deeper and deeper in size. By the time we bottomed Aldo our every growing interest of how large the main river series was going to be was soon answered. With an few scrambles and a couple short crawls, we arrived at the colossal Grand Gallery. A couple of pictures taken and a quick drink, we decided not to hang around much longer knowing just about enough to know what was still ahead of us. We soon approached a very empty Lac Cadoux which only welcomed us with a very bog like centre, we scurried around it and continued further and further along the starless river. 

Now having not seen the others for nearly 1hr 30, we were soon reminded of our fellow humans. Sat amongst a large pile of boulders was a party of four, who had taken a moment to stop for some food and a hot drink. Quickly realising the language barrier we made short conversation, they asked “how far you going?” we replied “1000, to the bottom” and a short concerning response of “Oh very far, long way”. A quick farewell and all the best, we pressed on down the Great Rubble Heap. Soon arriving a camp 1, we ditched our return kit and had a quick snack and drink. Not knowing when we might return we pressed on to reach The Hall of Thirteen, which to our surprise two cavers were setting up for some speleophotography and had lit up the entire area. It was a pleasure to see it all in its colours, crystal white formation with Light green and blue lagoon surrounding them. The temptation to stop for longer and enjoy the view but NO.. we had to keep moving. Time check 1250hrs 

Passing great gours and more great formations, we progressed onto the cascades and canal section. Multiple deep water traverses and waterfall pitches, we were feeling good with our pace and in a positive mind set enjoying or time and the challenges we were faced with. |We had previously worked out that we were already a couple hours ahead of our predicted schedule and were eager to knock of a few more hours. We soon moved into more impressive and loud waterfall sections and the volume increased the further we went. Claudines cascade and the topographers pitch welcomed us into the Grand Canyon, more abseils and scrambles followed and were rewarded with yet more large passage on great formations. Passing the Hall of eight and camp 2 we approached the Grand Cascade, it almost sounded like the cave was pulsing due to the immense water falling down it, you could feeling the booming of crashing water as it almost appeared  to fall into an endless abyss which was masked with spray. At touch down from the descent and through the screen of spray, we spotted another group of cavers who were returning to the surface. This was a bit of a surprise as just before camp 2 we met a team from Belgium who had been to the bottom and reported to us they hadn’t seen anyone ahead of them and presumed we would now been progressing on alone for the remainder of our decent. Passing a further 9 cavers all in short space of another, we were now soon approaching the Hurricane Pitch. Yet again the sounds was met before the beats itself, the we were forced onto a small ledge to begin a awkward and daunting traverse onto the head. It was certainly a moment of feeling exposed, as you were commit fully to dangling of the traverse line over the void below, then move yourself across onto the Ab line with no ground insight, it was certainly adrenaline activating. Checking things at multiple times at multiple rebelys, we signalled each other with the whistle this time to call the ropes and eventually made it to the base. Both laughing meeting each other at the ground we were both happy but slightly relieved we had passed it. 

Our last decent had past, we had made it to Inlet -1000. There was a good amount of water coming from it , probably due to the previous stormy days before. We wanted to push a bit further and managed to make short progress before meeting some very deep water. Neither of us fancying the deep cold swim, Steve removed his worn glove and we shock hand and congratulated each other on the decent. All that was left now was 1100 meter of Ascent… Amazing. Time check 1710hrs

The return was much different, each pitch the struggle grew and the fatigue began to slowly make an appearance. Checking the survey the reality of how far we had come set in after finding we had been moving nearly two hours now of going up and still had roughly 800 meter to go. Steady progress and keeping on pushing on continued and tried to keep our pace.  The Cascades and canals certainly seemed to go on and on but eventually making it along the last couple traverses with the prize for Steve of a rope knife from a “deeper than it looks” pool, we made it out and back into the Hall of Thirteen. We took the opportunity we had previously passed on and took some pictures of our own, and shortly round the corner we made it back to camp 1. Time check 2330hrs. Both happy to stop and rest for a moment, we changed into some warm dry clothes and got a brew and some hot food going, this was certainly one of many highlights of the trip, food always tastes amazing when you actually need it.

Rested legs and food partially digested, we got our boots back on and into our suits and got going again. Clock back on, Time 0050hrs. Moving back through the Great rumble heap, around Lac Cadoux and then finally through the Grand gallery, we made it to the entrance series junction. A shortly farewell to the cave we had just spent some life memorable moments in, we left and headed back up Aldo and the other great pitches until reaching the meanders. We were feeling good and surprisingly not as exhausted as we felt after leaving the camp. Before we knew it we were most of the way through and back at the Cairn. retrieving the last bottle, we quickly confirmed we had been hearing voices, but the good kind, and met a trio of cavers heading up the last few pitches. Our suspicions had been high as the deep mumbles and the ever growing smell of cigarettes were telling us we where catching someone. The Trio accompanied us all the way up the last pitches to the surface. 

0500hrs Tuesday Morning, we were out and breathing the fresh air once again. Feeling grateful and now tired, we once again congratulated one another and then got our SRT kits off for comfort for the walk back. We began around early morning hike back to the car park. After 30mins we managed to get hold of a sleepy Tom and arranged for our pick up. Loitering partly asleep, Steve got a brew on and we awaited for the little red car to appear over the brow to take us home. 

 

G.F Berger 2024 18hrs 30mins  

Vercors Week: Travel and Day 1 – l’Olette

Connor, Jason, John, Miranda, Scott, Steve, Tom, Yolanda

Tom, Scott and Connor met in Staveley at 3pm on the Friday and began their 928 mile drive. Scott steamed us down to Folkestone, but the bloody Worldwide Computer Problem had mucked things up and our shuttle was delayed a few hours – enough for a few stolen minutes of sleep on the departure lounge benches. Tom took over from Calais around 5:30am for the drive down France, powered by zero-sugar energy drinks.

Jason had opted for rail travel, and the rest were up early doors on Saturday for a flight to Lyon. They picked up their hire car and we met at the rendezvous hypermarket around 1pm with only 10 minutes between us. We stocked up in the rat-riddled Carrefour with plenty of goodies then headed to Bourgoin-Jailleu station to collect a ponderous Jason, found perched reading below a tree, along with his fantastic 70s rucksack which slotted nicely on top of Scott in the back.

Onwards to our base for the week, a gîte in Lans-en-Vercors. While it had never probably been intended to be a caver’s hut, it did a pretty good job of being one, with the correct amount of trees for airing all our gear out on and doing occasional SRTree in. A hosepipe, a shed, and a luxury ‘WC GRINDER’ toilet which electrically mulched anything you could shit in it, what more could we need?

Grotte de l’Olette

As a warm-up day to prepare for the main event tomorrow, we thought this seemed a great option and was minutes away at the top end of the Furon Gorge. Tom and Connor headed up for a scout of the facilities and the reportings were good, so we went back to pick up the others. The approach is fun, heading steeply up from the layby to a lovely ledge that whirls you round before heading further up the woodland to the top entrance, a ‘geological curiosity’, as the book describes it.

We descended into the large scenic sinkhole, with the waterfall cascading in. A dead snake gave us a fright, I believe it was a Boa Constrictor. We split off exploring various nooks and crannies before deciding on the biggest available hang for the next descent. Never quite leaving daylight, we headed down past a fairly wide deviation which was good practise, and onto a ledge high in the bottom entrance portal. A cracking training venue and a good introduction to the area.

Connor rigged up a guided ab line and we took it in turns to zip across it, before some headed back to the car while others practised rigging, ascending with a pantin and other bits and pieces.

After heading back home, we got our Sunday bests on and headed over to the Berger basecamp for the briefing meeting. Being the only Brits we just about got enough scraps of info after the main French briefing to piece together what was expected of us, and wrote our plans on the big pad. Some bought the t-shirts (a little presumptively) and we chatted to some European nutters about their digs, particularly a German chap who showed us their highly efficient and well engineered spoil cablecar. Then it was back over the pass to our Gite for some careful alcohol consumption mixed with nervous packing.

KCC go to Cantabria for 7 (or 9) days: Friday 12th – Friday 19th (or Sunday 21st) April, 2024

Helen, Tom, Scott, Damian, Chris, Rubee, Ray, Vikki, Miranda & John, plus Jim & Sharon (YSS members and friends of Helen)

Report by Helen, with contributions as listed in bold.

In April 2024 10 members of the KCC – Helen, Tom, Scott, Damian, Chris, Rubee, Ray, Vikki, Miranda and John – went to Cantabria for a caving holiday, where they were joined by Jim and Sharon, two of Helen’s friends and members of YSS.

Preparation was relatively straightforward as Helen had caved in Cantabria on 5 previous occasions and had stayed at the ‘chalets’ (2 large houses owned by Casa Tomas in Ogarrio) on several occasions. With various folk unsure as to whether they were joining the trip, we had also booked one of the apartments behind the Casa Tomas bar – ideally located for a quick beer but lacking in hosepipes and washing lines / fences that make the chalets such a good choice.

We carried, between us, enough ropes to allow 2 different groups to complete most of the popular through trips (& Sharon & Jim had brought a whole other set), so we were definitely not lacking in equipment. However, on most days, only one group required ropes and the chosen trips were often equipped with in-situ ropes. [Note: these were of varying quality, and we were quite thankful to have taken our ropes to some venues].

Ray and Vikki had arrived in Spain a week prior to the main party and Scott, for reasons of sustainability, had decided to travel via train and ferry. The remainder of the party met up in the flight queue at Manchester. After an uneventful journey, we arrived in Ogarrio at a sensible time for a quick cave…or beers in the sunshine for most party members…

 

Friday 12th April:

Ason gorge exploratory afternoon

Almost the whole posse (less ably led by Helen)

The team from the 2 chalets de-camped pretty swiftly to the bar at Casa Tomas, where Ray and Vikki had been waiting for our arrival—it was, after all, a glorious afternoon. Meanwhile, Sharon and Jim (staying in the apartment with Helen), disappeared to repeat a much-loved classic—the Coventosa trip to the streamway and up to the first lake (where boats become a necessity).

More beer, or a swift cave, was the option for the remainder of us…and surprisingly, when I suggested that we visit Cueva del Escalón, a cave near Coventosa, as it was a nice, easy walking trip that would provide a suitable introduction to caving in the area, the caving option appealed. So we also headed up the Ason valley to the parking place (take the right immediately before the bridge which wends up the valley side to a small hamlet) and had a beautiful walk along a low level trail to arrive at what I thought was the entrance to Cueva Escalón (oh, the fallibility of memory after a break of 4 years from Cantabrian caving trips!). It wasn’t Escalón, but we were able to get briefly underground—which was warranted in the heat. After a little more searching we did indeed find the entrance to Cueva Escalón only to find that it had been blocked off with a wall containing a door across the entrance, surrounded by a high fence topped with barbed wire. Tom informed us that it had been taken over by a group called Astroland to use as a training camp for would-be Mars explorers (!!)

 

Cuveva Coventosa entrance series

Helen, Miranda, John, Tom, Rubee, Damian, Chris, Scott, Vikki, Ray

After an inauspicious start to our first caving trip, we retreated to Coventosa—where a jet of cold air and huge entrance left no room for mistakes. We spent about 45 minutes exploring to the head of the first pitch and to the very well-decorated entrance series that is normally passed by if heading down the pitch to Sala de los Fantasmas. (Head straight on down a long slope and bear right at the bottom into a very large chamber with a stunning array of formations). This trip is also a possibility for injured cavers – as demonstrated by Damian heroically completing the tour using 2 walking poles!

 

Cueva Coventosa to lake

Jim, Sharon

We repeated a route we had done previously as far as the lakes. But took the muddy slide rather than the pitch on the way down. [HH edit: this can be found by going right from bottom of the first pitch (facing out), past the pitch up to the usual through trip route and continuing along till a hole appears at the base of the LH wall]. This isn’t recommended as no rope was in place and it’s now quite serious. Better to go via the main route using the up pitch and the knotted hand lines down. We made our way to the lake. Some new wires were in place on the traverses, which made things a bit easier.

[HH note: They arrived back reasonably late and so the week started for me as it was destined to continue—cooking tea and waiting to receive an ‘out safe’ message before indulging in a glass of wine!]

It is worth mentioning here that a nomination attempt for next year’s Cock Up Ken did occur on this first evening. Miranda, John, Chris and Damian had inadvertently shut their chalet door leaving the keys still inside. The chalets used to be relatively easy to get into without a key (!) however, in response to complaints from some guests, Casa Tomas had removed the means of easy access. Much beer had been imbibed at the bar and it was only on return that the discovery was made that no-one had picked up the key. So, in the middle of the night, none too pleased help arrived from Casa Tomas and the back door was duly crowbarred open to let 4 KCC cavers reach their beds. [Having said they were none too pleased, no charges were added to our bill. Thanks Casa Tomas].

Saturday 13th April 2024:

Three trips took place on our first full day in Cantabria:

Cueva Narizon to Torca Paloma:
Jim, Sharon, Helen

An excellent through trip with amazing formations. Took us about four hours after waiting an inordinate time for Jim to sort work and holiday rental problems. Was this becoming a theme? (Jim & Sharon undertaking long trips but starting very late in the day?) After a delayed start, we drove to the cave (on the northern coast by Castro Urdiales) and waited another 2 hours for Jim to finish wrangling with customers – in 28-degree temperatures with no shade. Sharon and I bided our time by rigging the exit pitch from Torca Paloma which was found easily by walking 100m down the road to a well-trodden path on the right, leading up through eucalyptus trees to a massive open pot. Of note: on our exit from the cave, the anchor that had been in situ had been removed and our ropes re-rigged to a tree belay. This proved perfectly adequate although it may be a good idea to take an anchor with you to rig this pitch. The formations were superb throughout and route finding generally straightforward, although Helen’s dodgy knee was not appreciative of the crawling that characterised progress through most of the cave. Ropes (of varying quality) were in situ throughout, so it is only necessary to rig the exit pitch). A definite recommendation for any future trips.

Cueva Cañuela

Tom, Rubee, John, Miranda, Chris, Scott, Vikki, Ray. (Photographs: Chris Hunter).

Vikki and I had taken a sneaky look into this one a couple of days earlier and were keen to get to the supposedly huge chamber (Sala Olivier Guillaume) that marked the end of a typical “bottom entrance” trip. This is where the final pitch from Sima Tonio drops in on the traverse. The plan was for Scott, Vikki & me to forge on ahead, while the others explored the Canon Oeste (without climbing the pitch up into El Bulevar).

From our experience a few days earlier, Vikki & I knew there was really only one good parking spot and it could accommodate 2 cars. Ideal, as we had 2 cars! Well, it would have been ideal if the area hadn’t been flooded with spectators for some sort of car rallying event. Still, we managed to squeeze one car into the perfect spot. The others had to park somewhere further towards Bustablado.

For reference, the walk to the entrance starts at a lane off to the left of the minor road to Bustablado, almost exactly 1km from the junction with the main road from Arredondo. It may be possible to park a single car at the start of this lane, but we weren’t brave enough for this. Our ideal parking spot is a small layby, maybe 200-300m before this lane, again on the left as you drive towards Bustablado. [HH edit: I have parked at the end of this lane on 2 previous occasions—it is possible!]

The lane starts downhill and soon crosses the river on a good bridge, before swinging round to the left and rising gently on the edge of the trees. As you progress, you will note an obvious cliff high up to the right. The entrance is not at this cliff. You need to stay lower and traverse further round beyond the cliff before climbing up to the entrance. At one point the good path you’re on disappears. Stay on the same heading up through a field and you’ll pick the path up again soon as you enter trees again. Essentially just stay on this path until you break out into a wide, grassy (and steep and muddy!) shallow gully that leads up to the huge entrance. You will probably note the cool cave air pouring down this gully. Follow it upwards!

The walk up was made more interesting by the fact that the locals had decided to set fires to burn off bracken (presumably) quite high up on the mountain-sides, so  there was a tang of smoke as we walked up the hill; we decided that if the cave was drawing in air, we wouldn’t enter it, but given the powerful outwards draught we decided that it would be safe to go in. [Edit HH: This was the day that forest fires engulfed the hillside—they were still burning for a few days. We were slightly worried about the Cañuela trip cavers!]

The entrance is truly awe inspiring. The cave is GINORMOUS – a large entrance leads to a passage maybe 15–20 metres wide and even higher. The scale of it has to be seen to be believed. We all set off together down the huge passage for a few hundred metres, where a long, roped traverse along the LH wall must be negotiated. This traverse is easy enough and was equipped with 2 fixed ropes for our visit. “Easy” is, of course, a relative concept. Rubee may choose to disagree… which makes her successful negotiation of this obstacle all the more impressive.

Once across the traverse, Scott, Vikki and I parted company with the rest of the group, who followed along at a more relaxed pace. The huge passage continues with few obstacles. There is a short handline climb up (2m or so) at one point. Eventually the pitch up into El Bulevar (and the further reaches of the cave) appears up to the LHS. This was easily identified in our case as there was a fixed rope going up. Shortly before this, the passage goes round a significant RH bend with what looks like it could be a pitch up in the LH corner. This is not the actual pitch!

If the pitch is not rigged, there is apparently a bypass via the “catflaps” just a bit further along the main passage. We didn’t look at the bypass, so can’t vouch for it in any way.

As planned, the rest of our party didn’t climb the pitch, instead carrying on along the main passage, which continues, apparently in fine style, as Canon Oeste. John, Miranda, Chris, Tom and Rubee continued through more of the big stuff. [John] After some time the others decided to call it a day, and I continued alone until I reached the end of this particular passage (well I think I did, but I didn’t look in every nook and cranny to prove it). We then turned back and were out after about 2 hours 40 minutes underground.

The pitch is apparently around 15m, but the bottom section is up sloping calcite, so there’s only a relatively short vertical section. At the top is a rebelay, made slightly more awkward (for us) by there being too many ropes for the short top section.

At the top of the pitch is El Bulevar, particularly pleasant and easy going in large passage with a flat floor. At the end of El Bulevar is a series of climbs down, again equipped with a fixed rope for our visit. Route finding to this point is pretty easy (as long as you find the up pitch into El Bulevar). It now gets a little bit more tricky and we found a compass and survey to be indispensable. One problem with the survey we had is that it shows all passages in the same yellow colour, so it’s difficult to know which passages are at which levels. There are quite a few piles of stones and reflectors to aid navigation, although the reflectors are really there to show the way out of Canuela from Tonio. Basically, if you haven’t seen a reflector or pile of stones for a while then consider turning round.

From the bottom of the climb down out of El Bulevar, the key is to climb/traverse high up to the LHS into the continuation of the higher level passage, rather than follow the obvious slope down to the right. Vikki and I followed this slope down on our first visit. At the bottom we were unknowingly turned round through 180 degrees to climb back up into territory that looked increasingly familiar!

Once in the continuation of the high level passage, avoid heading down a long slope to the right. Soon the passage forks. The way on to Sala Olivier Guillaume is the RH branch, but it’s worth taking a brief detour to the left, down to Galeria de las Sierras with its many hanging “swords”. Take the LH branch from the previously mentioned fork. Before long the passage starts to head down a slope and forks again. Head down to the right here for Galeria de las Sierras. Just keep heading down slope and marvel at the many sword-like stalactites. The passage eventually ends at a sump and the sound of running water below boulders. On the way back up, note that there is a higher-level passageway up to your left. You will soon be up there.

Back at the 1st fork, turn left (i.e. the RH branch as you head into the cave). Before long you arrive at a deep hole in the floor. You want to traverse and climb down to the LHS of this. There was another fixed rope here for our trip. A short descent brings you to a ledge at the top of another deep hole, which you were previously at the bottom of if you visited Galeria de las Sierras. Traverse the ledge easily around the RHS of this hole and follow the obvious passage through Galeria del 10 de Agosto. Route finding isn’t too hard – just keep heading south and following any markers you see.

Eventually the passage starts to climb at La Antesala. This is the final climb up into Sala Olivier Guillaume. Keep heading up until you come to a 4m pitch up, which will hopefully have a fixed rope – it did for us. At the top of this pitch, the passage soon opens up into the vast Sala Olivier Guillaume. It’s hard to take in the full scale of this chamber, mostly as it’s filled with a mountain of rubble, up which you are constantly climbing. We stayed close to the RHS as we climbed up. Vikki and I stopped somewhere short of the true summit, Scott carried on. We reckoned the climb up from the low point in La Antesala to the summit is just a bit short of 200m vertically!

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Scott got disoriented at the summit and started to head down the wrong side. Luckily our lights were able to guide him back down to us. Although we felt a long way from home as we set off out, the return trip went much faster than we expected. For one thing, route finding was much easier, partly due to all the lovely reflectors to follow. Before long we were slip-sliding back down the gully leading from the entrance. Once out of the gully (and the cool cave air) things heated up rather quickly.

This is a must-do trip for anyone in the area. Even better, do the traverse from Sima Tonio. Unfortunately, we didn’t get the chance on our trip… but it’s top of my list if I ever go back.

As a postscript, beware the dog that lives in the farm/house between our perfect parking layby and the lane leading to the cave. It isn’t scary/dangerous at all. Quite the reverse – it’s a bit too friendly. We had trouble getting rid of it both on the way to the cave and on the way back to the car.

[HH edit: This dog bit me and drew blood—I would contest the non-dangerous statement!!]

Ason col circular walk: Damian

Having successfully explored the entrance series to Coventosa with the aid of two walking poles, Damian headed off solo to engage in a walk that he described as quite challenging with the odd scramble and very interesting geology. The walk starts from the parking at the col and is well-marked throughout (14 km & 600m of ascent). It was another very hot day so probably a good choice rather than heading underground!

[HH note: this walk is a spectacular option for a non-caving day]

 

Sunday 14th April 2024

 

Damian continued his solo exploration of the area with a drive out to Picon Blanco while various other caving, and non-caving exploits took place:

Via ferrata El Cáliz:

Chris, John, Miranda

There are several via ferrata in the area, and Miranda, Chris and I decided to do the easiest one, which is situated just outside Ramales. On another glorious day we set off for the VF. There were quite a number of people doing the VF, which did, indeed, turn out to be very easy, but nevertheless got us into some spectacular situations. It climbs a height of 120 m, nearly all of it on hoops. We then spent the rest of the day rather lazily, with tea at the Plaza Bar for the second day on the trot.

Photo: John Forder

Coventosa:

Ray, Vikki, Scott, Helen

This was Vikki’s first SRT outing on the Cantabria trip and progress was cautiously made down the entrance pitch, into Sala de los Fantasmas, up the next pitch and down to the traverses.

When we reached the final traverse before descending to the streamway, Ray and Vikki turned around leaving Scott and me to continue. There have been substantial additions to the in-situ equipment along the streamway route—some useful, others not!

I stopped just before the traverse to the first lake, leaving Scott to continue solo—my knee was hurting after 3 consecutive days of caving.

I really enjoy this trip and it didn’t disappoint. Coming out into sunshine was especially welcome.

Finding Rubicera:

Sharon, Jim

A useful day to locate the entrance! [HH: This was indeed another long Sharon & Jim day & they were exhausted when they eventually returned—but had found the entrance—eventually!] Definitely best to park near the top of the Ason Gorge rather than from Mortero if wanting to do the Rubicera – Mortero through trip. The walk from Mortero was challenging and not recommended!!

Photos by Sharon Rosser. Photo below is of the boulder where you head down to the bottom of the top tier of rocks

Photo below is the cave entrance

Monday 15th April 2024

Damian and Helen undertook a shopping trip to top up supplies (it’s useful having folk without the capacity to cave every day on a caving trip!) This included Helen’s welly stop at the ferreteria and a farmacia stop for Damian’s blisters and Helen’s dog bite!

Helen had remembered a parking place at Alto Cruz de Usano (the col passed when approaching Matienzo) and we found a circuit on Damian’s app of 5km and 135m of ascent.

This in an area where many of the Matienzo group’s unexplored, possible caves are and we made sure to investigate each of many open potholes and gaps in the limestone pavement.

Cueva Rubicera to Mortero

Sharon, Jim

An amazing through trip with spectacular traverse around the P80. It is possible to avoid the spider traverse in Mortero by wading or swimming through the lake!! Through trip took us 8 1/2 hours. (Photos: Sharon Rosser & Jim Gleave)

 

Coventosa to the stream and Sala de los Fantasmas

Chris, John, Miranda

After 3 days of glorious sunshine today was dull, with a bit of drizzle, and quite cool.

We descended the pitch that leads off to the Sala de los Fantasmas (to the left with your back to the pitch) and set off in the opposite direction towards the streamway. This involved a modest amount of pitch work on in-situ ropes, and quite a bit of traversing on fixed ropes and/or thick steel cables, mainly quite easy, though on occasion a bit tricky. We reached an area of gours and deep pools, with a small stream running through, but didn’t proceed very far before going back to the Fantasmas, returning to the surface after about 4½ hours underground.

(Photo: Sala de los Fantasmas John Forder)

Red del Silencio

Ray, Vikki, Scott, Tom

Cueva Del Valle as far as La Playa. Return.

 

Tuesday 16th April 2024

 

Cueva de Cullalvera (show cave)

Damian, John, Miranda, Chris, Vikki

This was another grey, dull day with drizzle on and off, and so we decided to visit the show cave Cueva de Cullalvera, which is situated quite close to the centre of Ramales. The cave was rather disappointing, consisting of a single large passage with a few formations high up in the roof, though apparently it actually goes for 12 km.

 

Cuivo-Mortero

Helen, Scott, Tom

Found the entrance much more quickly than on previous visits! (Maybe spurred onwards by the drizzly weather). There was a very old and frayed traverse line to first PT—across a wide rift in descent – so I rigged a retrievable PT—but, having accepted a suggestion for a simpler way of rigging involving changing the knot at the Y hang anchors rather than pulling all ropes up again, the wrong rope was sent to the bottom. This I realised on my descent which ended in a loop about 2m from the floor! Reascended and sorted, but this mess up, and my hobbling, meant that the trip took us 6h45 rather than documented 5h for my previous trips.

A big disappointment for me was that there was no sign of the fire salamanders that have previously been abundant directly under the entrance pitch. I assumed that this was due to the inclement weather, but it appears that salamanders are often more active on wet days. Maybe the population has deceased? (There really can’t be sufficient food under a cave entrance pitch to feed a large family).

The cave was also much wetter than I remembered! We traversed and waded (& sometimes fell into) pools for what seemed an incredibly long time and we were all pretty hypothermic by the halfway point. I had to cut my rope on the 37m pitch as it got stuck somewhere halfway through the pull down and we were too cold to effectively solve the problem. Thankfully this was the longest pitch, so there were no ongoing issues (& the rope was well past it’s sell-by date anyway).

Exited into sunshine at Mortero and, by the time we were back at the car and feeling warmer, the near-hypothermia had been forgotten. An excellent trip.

Red del Silencio: Middle Entrance (Torca de la Canal) to Valle

Sharon, Jim

There are tight crawls and an awkward rift at the middle entrance, but worth it for the formations and through trip to Valle.

Middle entrance to The Book took us 45 minutes. The Book to La Playa took three hours and La Playa to Valley 1.5 – 2 hours.

[HH: This now completes, although not in one sitting, Sharon and Jim’s exploration of Red Del—having previously completed the top to middle entrance and explored for a couple of hours at the lower, Valle, entrance].

 

Wednesday 17th April 2024

 

Damian, Helen (& Ray for lunch)

Damian and Helen set out dreaming of nice salad and chips lunch at the Bar Coventosa in Ason, but this, and every decent looking bar was closed, so we ended with a dodgy sandwich in a less salubrious Arredondo bar—the only one open.

However, it still felt a bit decadent. We all tried the local white wine which turned out to be a cross between antiseptic and sherry—definitely NOT recommended.

In the afternoon, Damian and Helen headed up the Ason valley, following trails from Old Ason (6.5 km & 202m of ascent) reaching the base of the waterfall. (Well almost, we decided that the final 50m ascent through boulders was a step too far for our various injuries!) It was a lovely walk for those with dodgy knees or those wanting a restful day enjoying the tranquillity of the Ason valley.

Gandara

Sharon, Jim

Gandara to Salle Angel return. We met the team from SWCC at the Salle Angel Chamber, where there are great helictites.

We turned round at the ledge and near the waterfall in the Salle Angel chamber. Took 4.5 hours.

 

Cueva de Vallina through trip

Chris, Scott, Tom, John, Miranda, Vikki

We decided to do a through-trip from the original (Top) entrance to the Lost Pot entrance of Vallina. On another grey dull damp day, it was quite a relief to get underground. The entrance consists of quite a large opening, which closes down to a silly little tube that can, apparently, sump off. It is not very long however, and immediately on the other side of the crawl it opens out a bit and then there is a pitch of ~10 m.

After that the passage is mainly large until you arrive at a split pitch of ~12 m and 25m, where the passage gets a bit smaller. After a short distance there is another 12m pitch quite close to the Lost Pot Entrance. From here the passage is mainly of much smaller dimensions (though mainly walking). The trip went well, with only minor route-finding problems, and we emerged to a continuing dull day after about 3½ hours underground.

 

Thursday 18th April 2024

 

Another Vallina through trip: Top entrance Lost Pot entrance.

Sharon, Jim

A great little through trip took us three hours underground. Lots of interest. We briefly followed the route to new lower series before coming out of Lost Pot. [Slightly beating the time of the previous larger trip! I’m slightly jealous as this was a trip I wanted to repeat, being mainly walking and thus ok for my knee, but, given that the majority of KCC had already undertaken the trip, a Gandara lower entrance explore seemed on the cards].

 

Cueva de Gándara: lower entrance to Salle Angel pitch head

Miranda, John, Vikki, Helen, Scott, Tom

Thursday was another dreary, damp and cool day – another good day for getting underground! Scott, Vikki, Tom, Helen, Miranda and I set off (on Helen’s recommendation) for Cueva de Gándara, which is situated not far from the road at the top of the Asón Gorge. In some respects, this cave was similar to Cañuela, in that the part we visited was only a small section of a much bigger cave developed on different levels; it was also similar in that it started as a big passage with a traverse round the left-hand wall (going in).

[HH note: John seems to have left out the fact that both he and Miranda managed to set off rock falls by opting for alternative routes down the blocky slope showing how unstable it has become at the top after the recent-ish rockfall that has significantly expanded the entrance to this cave and strewn further blocks on the descent route—take care!! My knee had become progressively worse during the week and I opted to for a Damian-style, 2 walking pole descent of the initial slope to the traverse. Each time I visit, the traverse seems more polished and the in situ ropes less confidence-inspiring!].

It differed from Cañuela in that there were some smaller passages off to one side of the main passage. In fact, we actually found ourselves crawling at one point, though it was possibly the easiest crawl I’ve ever done, through a nicely shaped tube that in fact was more stooping with a bit of hands-&-knees stuff, with a floor of clean dry sand. Beyond the ‘crawl’ the passage enlarged again and there were some nice formations (albeit they were a bit dry). We turned back near a 60 m pitch to a lower level [HH: Salle Ange pitch—only Scott made it to the pitch head], and were out to a dull, murky afternoon after about 3¼ hours underground.

The Solo Adventures of Chris (with Damian for moral support): The search for Shaft 2967

Photos and text by Chris Hunter. Damian, who was mainly concerned with totting up his mileage seemed less enthusiastic (!) and writes: Cave hunting with Chris in the pissing rain! 6km and 270m of ascent.

Every year the Matienzo expedition publishes a hit list of sites which need revisiting. When we were over there in August 2023 one of the sites, 2967, described as a 10m x 3m x 10m deep shaft sounded interesting and we thought we would have a look at it. However, during that visit we never quite got to it as it is quite remote and other things were easier to access. 

Not getting to it last time left me with a feeling of unfinished business and Damian was up for a walk so on a very wet day we set off for a look. With a decent SUV hire car Damian was able to drive quite a long way up the track that leads to the site until we were defeated by a steep rock and gravel section, conveniently there was space to park at on a hairpin at the bottom of that section. From there a 3km up and down walk, but mainly up, in the rain got us to a point where we had to leave the track and climb up the hill. At this point Damian, who was struggling with a shoulder injury, decided he didn’t want to risk the rough karst terrain and headed back to the car. I found a point where I could climb up from the track to hill side and set off over the tricky terrain. 

On the way I found site 2061 by accident so went for a look, clearly at one time this would have been a decent cave and may be worth investigation.

View inside Cave 2061 showing stal columns:

The GPS showed about 400m from the track to site 2967 in a straight line but lots of shake holes and depressions meant that a straight line wasn’t possible. In thick mist and rain navigation proved interesting, but after a bit of slog I got to the right area which was a large steep sided valley with a number of depressions around the edge, one of those would contain 2967. The mist was starting to clear, and it didn’t take long to find the correct shake hole and in the side was a nice clean-washed shaft.

I had taken my SRT kit, a 12m rope and a couple of slings so I rigged off a bush and a block at the top of the shaft which after a good kicking seemed to be attached. A note for next time is to take some rope protectors because getting a rub-free hang was not possible. At about this time it occurred to me that whilst people generally knew where I was, I hadn’t left the exact location with anyone but I was here now so I with a little apprehension dropped the shaft.

As expected, it was choked at the bottom but was taking a dribble of water and there was a faint draught.

The bottom of the shaft:

Looking up the shaft:

On the way back the rain stopped, and the sun came out so, despite soggy boots, it was a pleasant walk back to the track. However, the track is cut into the hillside and has a 10 foot drop along a lot of its length, so finding a point to drop down meant some pretty unpleasant scrambling along the edge of the track. Having dropped down it was a slog back to the car with some nice views out to the coast.

After returning to Ogarrio, we settled up with Casa Tomas and the obligatory beer. It wasn’t sunny as at the beginning of the week but the huge amounts of tapas that arrived on our table meant that we summoned the wherewithal to brave the inclement weather for a while longer.

This more than sufficed as the starter for our final group meal at the Restaurant El Puente near Ramales.

Friday 19th April 2024

Ray, Vikki, Helen, Tom, Sharon and Jim bid farewell to Ogarrio and headed home. It was an early start and there was a fabulous sunrise (that I incompetently tried to capture—so not included here!)

Short of luggage space, and feeling the effects of 5 days of caving, I decided to wear my monstrous knee brace. Unfortunately, it did not fit under my legwear and so was highly visible…so much so that I was moved to the ‘needs assistance’ priority queue at Manchester passport control and was able to take Ray along with me (who was also hobbling). A small positive in terms of knee injuries and caving trips!

 

Meanwhile, back in Cantabria Damian completed another solo adventure:

After undertaking the several hour drive to the Picos, he completed the Cares Gorge Walk – his photos tell it all. (23km & 566m of ascent):

Chris, John, Miranda and Scott went for a pleasant walk in a shady forest up to a meadow, then came down again! Then went for a drive to Matienzo and visited Cueva de la Cosas.

 

Saturday 20th April 2024

Damian, John and Miranda completed a loop around Ogarrio. Lovely 7.5km with a bit of uphill (230m in total) 

 

Chris and Scott: A drive up Picon Blanco followed by a  poke around the area at the head of the Ason gorge.

 

All: A visit to Cueva del Agua and a drink in Matienzo.

 

Sunday 21st April 2024

 

Later flights allowed those returning on Sunday to check out other places on the drive to Bilbao:

 

Damian drove to the El Suceso hamlet and walked partway up Armanon:

From Armanon looking west towards the Picos (Photo: Damian Teal)

 

And so ends the KCC diary of caving (& other) events in Cantabria, Northern Spain in April 2024. We had a mix of weather, but enough sunshine to make us feel as though we had come to Spain. We barely touched the surface of possible caving opportunities and perhaps, with a less injured party on our next trip, we will be able to complete more of the famous through trips…or join Chris on his search for unexplored openings in limestone pavements.

Possible date for next trip: April 2026.

Peak District Weekend

Chris H, John, Miranda, Ray, Scott, Sophie, Tom

Well well well. 

We chose to ignore the weather warnings of snow for the weekend and head to a remote cottage in the Peak District. 

Everyone except Tom headed down on Friday night for hefty amounts of F.R.O. and Sloe.

After Tom arrived on Saturday morning we headed to Knotlow. Both the climbing shaft and the engine shaft were rigged and we split into two teams and headed down for an exchange. The Engine Shaft was a fantastic 64m abseil and just as we arrived, John dropped down from the Climbing Shaft route after a minor rigging headache. We swapped shafts with John heading up the engine shaft to de-rig solo, and the rest of us headed up the Climbing Shaft route to the bitterly cold outdoors. 

After getting back to the cars for lunch, John, Miranda and Chris ‘accidentally got changed’ and decided a walk/pub were a better option for the afternoon. The rest of us headed to Hillocks Mine round the corner. It was luxuriously toasty indoors and we headed down the big entrance chamber and dropped into a nasty little flat out with a convenient puddle to dampen the spirits. A quick drop down a shaft then more rummaging led us to a bit of a rigging puzzle as Ray tried to figure out the way down a multiple choice pitch using a soggy topo (thanks, puddle). At this point spirits began to fade as we were cold and mildly fed up, but Scott, Ray and Sophie pushed downwards with Tom wussing out. They returned 10 minutes later with tales of 50-foot long straws and formations as far as the eye could see. But the thought of dry clothes and a stove were far more appealing, I’ll leave those for next time. It was lightly snowing as we got back above ground, a taste of things to come…

Sometime in the evening the snow started falling harder, and as we popped 50p coins into the drying room meter and showered ready for the pub, we wondered whether it was the right decision driving a mile and a half for food. We had some great grub at the Jug & Glass and hopped back in the cars to get back before the snow got too deep. Sophie’s idea of leaving the cars at the end of the track were ignored (or even chuckled at), and so we drove them down the slippy and steep track to our cottage, wise move.

We woke up to 3 inches or so of fresh snow. For some reason we got cracking with the shovels at 7am, wildly hoping we might still be able to make it to Peak Cavern for our 9:45 keyholder meeting time. It quickly became clear that we were facing a major engineering challenge, with all hands on deck taking shifts to shovel, grit and sweep to create a route up the steep track. Some southerners who were also staying at the hut watched the whole thing from the kitchen windows, grumbling about how we were ruining the track and how they’d probably have been able to just drive up it, using their extensive knowledge of snow driving in Peterborough. It took over 2 and a half hours to clear a couple of hundred metres of track but eventually we moved the cars up one by one with a bit of pushing and towing. 

We headed to the Tradesman’s Cafe in Buxton for a well-deserved brekkie, and made our ways home caveless. One for the story books, if not the record books. And also not one for the photo albums – our only pics were of our shovelling struggles.

Otter Hole

Yolanda, Scott, John (our guide from Royal Forest of Dean Caving Club). Trip report by Yolanda.

Otter Hole is often described as ‘a collector’s piece’. A lot of KCC crew had already done it, and while they all said it was brilliant, nobody wanted to do this 9 hour caving trip again. On Friday, Scott and I went to the Forest of Dean to find out why.

We met John, our guide, at 8:30 on Saturday morning and made our way through the woods to the slightly ominous looking metal hatch that led to the cave. As usual, I had a look at the sky in case I never saw it again, before wriggling my way into the cave and into a series of rather small and very muddy tunnels. There then followed a long long hour of sliding through salty mud before we arrived at the tidal sump – quite full and rapidly rising. John had guesstimated that the sump would be about knee deep when we arrived, so it was a bit of a nasty shock to find that the water was already shoulder deep. The archway was almost impassable, and the eyelet above the arch was getting more and more tricky as the water rose. John explained to us that we either needed to climb above the water and go feet-first through the eyelet, or give up and go home. For me, giving up and going back to the youth hostel sounded fairly appealing, but a mixture of pride and also guilt at the prospect of ruining the trip for Scott propelled me to climb above the water, shove my feet through the eyelet, and wriggle my way through.

A terrifying traverse and another half hour of sliding through mud followed before we reached the ‘wash off point’ – some scrubbing brushes on a rock. We scraped the worst of the mud off ourselves and I treated myself to a cheese and mud sandwich before continuing on our journey. After a few boulder chokes we reached Otter Hole’s beautiful cave formations; huge stalagmites, stalactites, calcite blankets, and enormous calcite formations. In my years of slithering around in the dark, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a more beautiful cave – chamber after chamber of wonder.

The journey back out of the cave was relatively smooth, apart from a bit of panic when I got stuck on my head about five minutes from the entrance. Luckily Scott and John managed to free me in the end and five days on, my neck is nearly back to normal. There was a layer of brown silt in the shower that evening and my hair bobbles were encrusted onto my plaits with dried mud, but it was well worth it to see one of the most beautiful caves in the world. Thanks John and Scott for an amazing trip!