Sell Gill Exchange

Billy, Sophie H, Tom, Maz, James and Paddy.

It was a beautiful evening in Horton in Ribblesdale and a delightful walk up the hill to Sell Gill, albeit through some extremely tall grasses. I had been trying to think of some trips me and Billy could lead together, and decided a Sell Gill exchange would work perfectly. With encouragement from James and Paddy, I rigged the dry route, shortly followed by Maz and Tom, whilst Billy headed off to rig Goblin. All went smoothly, and I even managed to beat Billy to the bottom and watched him glide down the final pitch.

We had thought about rigging the elusive pitch at the bottom, but decided to head out sooner and enjoy the sunshine whilst we could. One for another time. A quick switchover and James headed up Goblin, followed by me and then Paddy who kindly de-rigged. He wasnt too keen on the efficient packing. 2 bags next time. It was exceptionally dry and its a brilliant bit of cave. Billy, Maz and Tom went out via the dry.

Once out we had a lovely walk back down the hill, collecting sheeps wool and looking at owls and moths on the way. A lovely evening and really enjoyable trip.Written by Sophie H. 

Jingling Pot

Dave, Dave, Ami, Paddy, Damian, Scott, Sophie & Billy

On a very pleasant, warm, clear, calm evening, the crew headed up the steep slog to Jingling with a mish mash of ropes based on the limited availability in the store (where are all the 60s?!). Dave cracked on with rigging the initial traverse with Ami in a close 2nd. With the two short folk thoroughly enjoying the rigging.. being too vertically challenged to reach the handy foot ledge, the ungracious back lying shuffling along the top ledge was called for. luckily Ami didn’t have a camera to catch this. 

Here began the usual verbal diarrhoea of the cavers war cry, as the bags were doing everything they could to be obstructive. 

The remainder of the lateral cleft route was quickly rigged with a couple of unorthodox rope change overs, and Dave descending the direct route and landing just before Dave on the lateral cleft and the rest of the team quickly filing down. 

Not many opted for the free climb down the final pitch, choosing to have a catch up before climbing out instead in the pleasant company of a rather large frog. 

We beat the retreat and started the exit climbs to complete our exchange and Sophie was last out after some derigging practice by half 9, so a nice early finish but too late for a pint, maybe next time!

Fairy Holes

Present Damian, Tom, Scott, James, Jasmine

 

It’s a bit of a drive but this cave is really worth it. Cavers can only visit on one day a month and for much of its discovered history its been part of a working quarry. In fact despite losing 600m of passageway through being quarried away its still one of the longest stream passageways in the country. 

 

So we parked in our allocated space and walked up to the quarry. First challenge was to find the cave. This place is huge! We wandered about eventually following a path up the side of the quarry to a stream flowing out of a grille. We had the key and unlocked this, followed by a mild wetting as we crawled through a big concrete and metal pipe. Then suddenly we were in a cave. Seemed surprising after the quarry environment. 

 

The cave itself is a long stream passageway where occasional rockfall has made things harder so you have to climb or go underneath. The stream way involves wading through water of varying depth. Despite wearing a wetsuit and wetsuit socks being constantly in this water it gets cold. So gradually we got a bit chilly. But despite this we got quite a long way until a constriction stopped Damian. It was a good effort but he turned round. So there were four of us left and we sloshed on. 

 

The walls of the cave are not so solid as there are amazing mud formations everywhere formed of thick layers of mud. This is a nice change from all that clean Yorkshire limestone. Eventually we got to a bit where Scott and Tom turned around. The cave seemed endless at this time, we all had cold feet apart from Jasmine who was pretty much 50% neoprene. BUT it was shortly after this point that the cave changed in character and me and Jasmine were in  higher level passages following white dots. Crawling along sweating buckets. The warmth got my enthusiasm going again and we pushed on. Many interesting formations were encountered and Easegillish type Chambers were passed. At last we got in the streamway again and followed it to the end where it seemed impassible and awkward and our map went no further.

 

We turned round and made a retreat for the next 3 hours. Caution was thrown away and we dived through ducks and wet bits with enthusiasm because we knew the others would be waiting and we’d been ages. I saw a blind cave fish, which i subsequently found the cave is famous for. Then eventually we emerged from the pipe into the freezing air and darkness. Chilly times on the walk out. Mercifully Tom had heated seats for the way home. Luxury.

 

A great trip but we found out later that it wasn’t the real end to the cave. In recent years the removal of some mud has allowed explorers to get even further. So a reason to return. 

 

Thanks Damian for sorting out the access and organizing the trip.

Voldemort Hole

Present James, Jasmine

Wild and windy getting changed on Leck fell was a challenge but eventually we headed off to find the cave. Heading up the wall 200 yards and then looking from this 30 yards away to find the small shakehole from which Voldemort descends. This was a relief to find, welcome to cosy cave but hopefully not too cosy.  We slither through the entrance passages and down climbs, seeing some interesting scaffolding and then down a pitch. We were going for a pull through. It was my first time rigging one, but I knew the theory and what could possibly go wrong? Well reading the last KCC report was a mistake because last time the rope got stuck and they had to return the next day. Best not to know sometimes! I had no spare time or inclination for this to happen this time.

 

So after the first pitch we removed harnesses so we could look at all the amazing formations. Well worth it but being sporting cavers we both decided that they were beside the point of being here and we were much more interested in getting into some awkward cave passageway. 

 

The takeoff from the 2nd pitch was fun and we successfully pulled through taking the mid height passage through to the 3rd pitch. The rope nearly got stuck on this but we freed it all while water poured down on us. Wetter now we dragged ourselves and our 70 m and 50 rope bags through the wet canal section finally arriving at the top of the big one, ‘Oliver Lloyd Aven’. 35m of pull through potential problems. But we were very careful to let the rope untwist and so all was good. 

 

Now just the simple matter of dragging the bags and ourselves back out of Notts 2. I found some emergency chocolate and spirits were raised enough to get us out of there. In the end it was surprisingly late but time flies when you’re having fun!

Croesus Cave, Tasmania

Vikki & Ray with Northern Caverneers Cathie, David, Bob & Damian

After lunch we drove round to the parking for Croesus Cave, which it turns out is the same parking as for Lynds the day before. The 2 caves are actually very close, essentially just on opposite sides of the Mersey River. We were joined by another new face – Damian, who is an ex-pat Brit and former member of the Wessex. We were warned that Croesus is very wet and so wetsuits are essential. Vikki had brought her own from home and I borrowed one of Cathie’s, which fit like a glove. Very much appreciated Cathie!

It was a relatively short walk to the entrance, back up the road a bit and then cross country on a very vague, more or less non-existent track. It is actually quite a grand entrance, although it soon closes down, just beyond the gate, to a short hands and knees crawl. We regrouped on the other side in a nice, fairly dry, walking-sized passage. But it was short-lived as we were soon ducking through an arch and wading in increasingly deep water. There was a howling gale blowing out though this arch. Eventually the floor rose and things got very nice indeed.

The depth of the streamway varied from almost nothing to full on swimming, although, thankfully for me, it was always possible to scramble around the edges and thus avoid actual swimming. For long sections, the floor was calcite, so we had to be careful in quite a few places not to damage it. As with Lynds, the walls and ceiling were covered in almost continuous formations. The scale seemed bigger than Lynds though, so I found it harder to photograph with my very old (and cheap) phone.

At one point we had to traverse around a deep pool. This was accomplished by climbing around the right hand side on small holds and then posting oneself through a very convenient hole. The passage just got better on the other side.

Eventually we came to the Golden Stairs, where we had to climb a staircase of gour pools, being very careful not to step on the rims or in the pools (which were mostly dry, apart from some mud). As I was at the back, I had the benefit of watching the trail of cavers ascending to heaven. What an amazing sight.

The formations didn’t reduce at the top. At one point, Damian (who seemed to know the cave particularly well) suggested that I should clamber up to have a look on top of a particular boulder. Wow! It was covered with the most delicate, almost translucent, mini gour-like structures.

Shortly after this, Cathie, Bob, Viki and I turned back, while David and Damian carried on for a bit. I believe it’s possible to do a through trip – the howling gale earlier would certainly suggest so – but not on this occasion. For some of us, this was our 3rd trip in 2 days and we were getting a bit tired.

On the way out, we seemed to go a bit too high and were quite surprised to see David & Damian simply walking along the streamway far below us. Apart from that, the journey out went quickly enough. At the traverse around the deep pool, Vikki (being half fish) decided it would be easier just to plunge in and swim. I think Damian did the same. I didn’t! Cathie’s light was fading, so we ended up travelling together for the last section.

Croesus was one of the best decorated caves I’ve ever seen, probably the most. Lynds and Genghis Khan weren’t bad either. I tried to think of anything that even comes close in the UK. Otter Hole is probably the closest. Maybe the White River Series in Peak/Speedwell? There certainly aren’t many. And definitely nothing so easily accessible.

Sadly, this was the end of our Tasmanian caving adventure. We had a great time and would really like to thank all the Northern Caverneers we met, particularly Cathie, who put so much time and effort into making it all possible. Needless to say, we would love to reciprocate one day. Any Northern Caverneers can be assured of a warm KCC welcome if ever you’re up north! Thanks all so much.

Photos by Ray.

 

Genghis Khan Cave, Tasmania

Vikki & Ray with Northern Caverneers Cathie, David, Karen & Bob

Day 2 of our Tasmanian caving adventure again started with meeting at the Mole Creek Hotel, this time at 08:45 as we had 2 caves to fit in – Genghis Khan Cave before lunch and then Croesus Cave after. See separate report for Croesus.

When we arrived at the hotel, Cathie & David were already there, as were new faces (to us) Karen & Bob. A few introductions later and we were on our way in convoy to the parking for Genghis. The last part of the journey was off-road and our car wasn’t deemed fit for the track, so we jumped in with Bob. No debate about clothing this time as Genghis is totally dry.

It was a relatively short, but uphill walk to the entrance, made much easier by recent clearance of the track. I believe Bob & David were involved in that. Thanks guys! As we stood to catch our breath, a very hungry leech made a beeline straight for us. No snakes this time though.

Once at the entrance, David produced a rope. Hmmm. Should we have brought SRT kit? Thankfully it was just for use as a handline on the initial climb down on the other side of the entrance gate, which was again locked. The handline wasn’t strictly necessary as the climb was easy enough, but thanks for bringing it David. There was talk of a cave spider partway down the climb, which I kept my eyes peeled for when it was my turn to climb down. Sure enough, there he was, all big and spidery, deep in an alcove. We had a brief discussion and agreed to keep out of each other’s way. The spider seemed to take this quite seriously as he hadn’t moved by the time we came past again on our way out.

The cave continued down steeply. At one point, Cathie, who was now at the front, wasn’t sure of the way on. David took the lead and popped through a slot directly onto another climb down. This looked quite daunting from above, but there were plenty of ledges to move your feet down, so wasn’t too bad in the end. At the bottom of this climb it all got much bigger. There was a trough for washing feet, which I took as a very good sign as it must mean there were pretties ahead.

We worked our way down into the large chamber/passage, then doubled back to the left. Bob, who was behind me, questioned the left turn, suggesting instead that we should carry straight on down. Still, we carried on and soon found another foot bath. Beyond this, the formations really started to kick in. First there was a forest of straws, then the walls and ceiling were covered in formations that I can only describe as being porcupine-like. I’d never seen the like before.

We arrived at the top of a fallen slab, sloping down at an angle of 20 degrees or so. At this point, there seemed to be general agreement that we should have taken Bob’s route earlier. This whole section is actually a loop, so you could go either way round in theory, but Bob’s way was more optimal from the perspective of keeping boots clean at the relevant times. So we retraced our steps the short distance and carried on down the slope.

Like Lynds Cave, the formations were spectacular and virtually continuous, although of a very different character. Eventually we reached a climb up into a grotto which was simply amazing. There were some very unusual formations, almost like upside down trees hanging from the ceiling. Again, I’d never seen anything like it before.

It took a while, but we eventually tore ourselves away from the grotto, which was a dead-end. We climbed back down and then found the bottom of the ramp we had been at the top of earlier. It was easy enough to crawl up, but wasn’t something you would want to rush. The ceiling, which is only 2 or 3 feet above the floor is festooned with the porcupine-like formations, with the odd straw and helictite thrown in for good measure.

At the top of the slab, we simply had to retrace our steps and we were soon back at the various climbs to daylight, which didn’t pose too much of a problem for anyone. This was quite a short trip – we were probably only underground for 1.5 hours or so – but it really packs a punch. Very different from Lynds, but no less impressive.

Once changed, we all decamped to one of the show caves (I think it was King Solomon’s), where there was a very nice shelter for a spot of lunch. After lunch, Karen sadly had to leave us. Cathie, David and Bob stayed for the afternoon cave – see separate report.

Photos by Ray.

Lynds Cave, Tasmania

Vikki, Ray and Northern Caverneers Cathie, David & Peter

While travelling around Tasmania, Vikki & I thought it would be nice to have a look in some of the local caves. So, before leaving the UK, Vikki had made contact with Cathie P from the Northern Caverneers, who had promised to show us some caves around the Mole Creek area over a 2 day period. We were not to be disappointed!

So there we were outside the Mole Creek Hotel, bright and early on Sunday morning, not really sure what to expect, but very excited. Peter was first to arrive and say hello, soon followed by Cathie & David. After some introductions, we jumped in with Peter for the short drive up to the usual parking spot. There was some discussion about the best clothing to wear for Lynds. Vikki had come prepared for anything, with both dry caving suit and wetsuit. I had come only with my usual fleece undersuit and oversuit, but Cathie had very kindly brought several wetsuits for me to try on. The issue with this particular cave it seemed is that, while it is dry enough once underground, the Mersey River has to be crossed to get to the entrance. Sometimes this is a full on swim (my eyes widened considerably at this news!), but recent dry conditions meant it was more likely just to be a wade through deep water on this occasion (phew!). On balance, we all decided to dispense with wetsuits for this trip.

We set off on a rather vague path and soon reached the point at which the river had to be crossed, directly opposite the entrance. Cathie set off first, followed by Vikki, while I watched rather nervously from the bank. It didn’t seem too bad at all at first, but gradually more and more of Cathie & Vikki disappeared below water, until only their arms, shoulders and heads were visible. Thankfully, at that point they started to slowly reappear as they passed the worst and began to re-emerge on the far side. At this point I could no longer put it off, so began my own crossing. It all would have gone ok, apart from the coldness of the water, but in the deeper section the river bottom is very uneven, with lots of trip hazards – not ideal for an aquaphobe. Vikki noticed that I had almost ground to a halt in the middle so, wanting to actually get into the cave, plunged back in to hold my hand and gee me along. David and Peter must have been wondering what on earth was going on as they waited until I was across before entering the water themselves.

Once across the river, the bank has to be followed for a very short distance to the cave entrance, again through deep water, but with things to hold on to this time. The entrance itself is hidden behind a large block and, like the other caves we subsequently visited, is gated and locked. It starts as a nice walking-sized passage, but very quickly there is a deep pool to traverse around with a small (1.5m) waterfall to climb at the far side. Opinions seemed to differ on the best route to take around the pool. Either way, it involves climbing around the edge on small holds. Cathie preferred the long way round (to the right), which she thought was easier, while David recommended the more traditional and shorter route to the left. Vikki and Peter followed Cathie. I took David’s recommendation and set off to the left. To be honest, it was pretty easy, with lots of handholds, although considerably less for the feet. The waterfall was very easy indeed to climb, so no problems there.

The waterfall climb is almost like the true entrance to the cave. Above this, the passage is just festooned with stunning formations, almost wherever you look. Like us, Peter had never been into Lynds before, so he and I were stopping at almost every step to photograph some new formation, or even an old one from a different perspective. I hope his camera was better than mine as my cheap phone simply couldn’t do justice to the place.

As promised, water levels weren’t particularly high. There was also no mud, no crawling, no squeezing, no pitches… in fact, progress was very easy, with just the odd easy boulder obstacle to overcome. I can fully understand why a locked gate is necessary, given the delicate nature of the jewels behind it.

I believe we managed to get as far as the Ballroom, which isn’t very far at all. But we took a very long time to get there due to the photography and general looking around to attempt to take it all in. Along the way, we saw the full range of cave formations, including stals, very long straws, columns, curtains, stunning flowstone cascades, gour pools… you name it, we saw it… and all at a very high standard indeed. At one point we found ourselves climbing up the most stunning golden coloured flowstone cascade alongside a fabulous stepped calcite pillar. In several places, the calcite flows had been cracked in an earthquake in the 1990s (I believe?). This in itself was well worth seeing, to get a glimpse at the layering inside the cracks.

Alas, we had to turn around eventually. The pathetic distance we had covered became obvious as we reached the waterfall climb in no time at all and soon we were out in the heat of the Tasmanian afternoon. Vikki didn’t even bother to ask if I needed assistance to get back across the river – she more or less dragged me across. On the walk back, we came across a snake at the side of the path. Concensus among the experts was that it was a tiger snake, although there were some suggestions that it could also have been a copperhead. From a personal survival perspective, it made very little difference to me as they are both equally venomous.

After getting changed, we sat at a very conveniently-placed picnic table for a spot of afternoon snackage. All very civilised. Can’t imagine that on Leck Fell, at any time of year. We then bade goodbye to Cathie & David for the day and were promised a double trip the next day – see separate reports.

Peter drove us back to our car at the Mole Creel Hotel, where we obviously had to pop in for a beer. Despite my insistence that we should buy Peter a beer, he amply demonstrated Aussie hospitality by insisting even more that he should buy ours. We gave in gracefully. Cheers Peter.

We went to bed that night both stunned by what we had seen and excited about what tomorrow would bring.

Photos by Ray – apologies for the poor quality.

Bull Pot of the Witches

Present: James, Tom, Paddy

The evening’s plan was Bull pot of the witches. Paying strict attention to the CNCC rigging topo I brought 5 kit bags full of rope. I think we only used 2 in the end!

The journey began rigging the initial chimney descent. Again this didn’t really seem necessary apart from bottom bells out slightly. We headed right, finding a massive chamber of Cavern 32 to the right; however, after looking in a few uninviting corners we returned to the main shaft to continue our descent. 

Down a couple of pitches we ended up at the Long Gallery. Heading right towards the streamway we ended up at the Trap. But we weren’t to be trapped this evening. Capitalizing on the drought-like conditions we managed to wade through with water levels barely rising above waist height. Pushing on further through a duck we ended up in the Upstream Passage. This continues all the way to the final upstream sump. Apparently the next stop for divers if they could find a route would be Aygill Caverns! 

Heading back through the duck we headed up the steep, muddy slope rigged with a hand-rope. Paddy took the lead, disappearing up the incline. Me and Tom followed, managing to squeeze up into the beautiful Gour Chamber. Well worth the effort. To get out we followed the bottom of this through a tight squeeze. I’m sure this would be harder the other way round so we were happy to find this chamber from our less usual direction.

Realising it was now late and our survey was smushed into pocket sludge we found our way up into the main Bull Pot Shaft. Tom volunteered to de-rig the entrance passages, much appreciated. 

Aygill Caverns

Present; James, Sophie, Billy, Amy, and Jasmine 

After a quick walk in the opposite from usual caving direction we managed to find the entrance hole by the side of the (dry!) Aygill beck. Thus followed a bit of head scratching we found our way through to the first pitch. Although this section can be free-climbed, we opted to rig it for safety. The way on was through a rift in the floor to a narrow, squeezy passage that had caused a significant tangle on a previous trip, but this time we moved through smoothly, perhaps things are getting easier?

As the cave progressed, the environment became increasingly wet and fun. Reaching the cascading sections required careful bridging and scrambling down slick, steep walls. The navigation became more complex downstream where several routes intersect, requiring frequent reference to the survey description. Doing a complete 180-degree turn near the Sand Junction we eventually approached the sump. This involved a challenging “‘orrible bit”—a low crawl where the water level rose nearly to the roof, contrasting my earlier optimistic assessment that the trip would be a relatively dry one.

Demonstrating great bravery, Jasmine dived into the sump pool. Fortunately, she had the foresight to wear a wetsuit, wisely hedging her bets against my assessment of the conditions. Completely saturated but satisfied with reaching the sump, we began our return journey. The only interruption to this was near the entrance pitch by two resident bats that took exception to our presence. The bats became loud and screechy, flying directly at the team’s faces and prompting a hasty exit from the cave

Aygil Caverns is a high-quality system with much more to offer. The trip served as a good recce for future objectives, in already eyeing the Middle, Left hand, Red Rose and Precambian Series for next trip.

Dowbergill Passage

James, Tom, Scott (narrator)

I’d heard lots about Dowbergill Passage: a long, straight through trip between two caves, with deceptively tricky navigation. Deep water, high traverses. Mind games, physical attrition, tricky rescues.
Actually, I quite enjoyed it. In dry conditions, with good companions, a detailed description and the right gear, it just felt like a fantastic trip.
James and I met Tom at Park Rash, and he kindly left his car there to shorten the walk back from Dow, when or if we exited.
I’d had some good input from John and Jason during the planning of this trip, and had opted to carry a short rope for any scary downclimbs, although the planned route would stick to the lower, more watery sections. I was wearing a full wetsuit under my caving gear, while James was confidently sporting a furry onesie. Tom was somewhere in the middle with 1mm of neoprene.
The walk up to Providence Pot wasn’t too bad, and we entered the scaffolded tube with an audience, who seemed privately sure that we would never emerge again. James navigated using the excellent description from NFTFH, and guided us through various wet crawls, blasted crawls, muddy crawls and occasionally some big muddy chambers that we could walk in.
Eventually we met the actual streamway at Stalagmite Corner, and so began the fabled Dowbergill Passage. All went well until Bridge Cavern, which is a breakdown chamber with extensive sections of false floor. We went past one possible climb to the stream below and investigated further on, but the next climb looked worse, so Tom and I retreated to the last climb, not quite followed by James. At this point several things happened in close succession.
Tom climbed down through some precarious boulders towards the stream, dislodging a small rock as he went. He warned me that things were on the move, and after having a look, I carefully followed him. I’d gone a few meters downstream when –
BANG!
A big block fell down behind me somewhere. I paused, bridging a rift, and shouted to see where James was. No reply.
We hurried a bit further downstream, hoping to see him still on top of the sketchy climb that we had retreated from. So he was! It turned out that both of his lights had failed, and he’d been forced to wait until we reappeared.
We lit up his surroundings and spotted him down the climb, until he’d restored life to one of his torches. The other remained stubbornly dead.
I went at the front for a bit as we entered a ‘fun’ bit of streamway, which had various chockstone obstacles to overcome until we got to 800 Yards Chamber, where we had a short rest. Then onto a wet section with narrow squeezing just above the water. After a while we came to the Brew Chamber Boulder Choke, which required a bit of vertical squeezing. On the other side was a handline climb into ‘The Narrows’.
I went down this, and found it doable but awkward, even for my scrawny build. Sensing that James and Tom might make heavy weather of it, I shouted back to traverse over the top. I turned back, and very nearly got stuck myself. I had to back up and take off some kit, then nearly lost a welly as I struggled back to the handline.
At the top, James led a section of traversing, then downclimbing. This bit was quite reminiscent of the Crabwalk in Giant’s Hole. We eventually ended up on the downstream side of The Narrows. From here, the route was wet fun (if you’re wearing a 5mm wetsuit anyway), with wading, a few low airspace ducks, and even a tiny ‘free dive’ under a boulder. We stayed low, ignoring the climb up into the Gypsum Traverse, and were eventually rewarded with the sight of the giant flowstone formation near the Buddhist’s Temple in Dow. We had made it!
The exit from Dow was easy stomping, and we emerged to bright sunshine and Tom’s chariot awaiting us at Park Rash. Later, we went to the pub, which even served coffee (thanks James).
Dowbergill was a really interesting journey, and now that a week has passed I’m quite keen to get back in sometime for a look at some of the other options. Going in from the Dow Side and just doing some wet canal bits, then back over the top via Gypsum Traverse would also be a fun trip.
Many thanks to Tom and James for their usual good company, and an excellent way of avoiding the football!