Lost Johns, Monastery Route

Long Dave, Billy, Sophie H & Ray

The trip on this particular evening should have been a Big Meanie – Deaths Head exchange, but Ami (who had proposed it) was unavailable. As she was keen to do it, we simply postponed it and replaced it with not 1, but 2 trips! Damian led those with a penchant for aquatic pleasure into Middle Scar Cave, while I tried to drum up enough danglers for a Monastery – Dome exchange in Lost Johns, which is a trip I’ve been keen to do for quite a while. Only Dave, Sophie and Billy signed up in the end. While it certainly would have been possible to do the exchange with 4, it somehow seemed more sociable for such a small party to stick together. So we decided on a simple in and out of Monastery.

For once, the weather was surprisingly clement up on Leck Fell, so it was a rather leisurely change and stroll along to the entrance. And what a different scene greeted us to that of a few weeks ago. This time there was barely any water flowing into the LJ entrance. We were going to have a very pleasant evening indeed – none of the usual spray lashing or salmon impressions on the various climbs for us.

I led off through the very familiar entrance passages, eventually cutting down with the water where the New Roof Traverse heads off towards Dome & Centipede. Sophie declared herself very happy to not have to do this particular traverse. Hmmm, I thought.

Continuing with the water, we got to a short down climb. In the past I’ve wasted a bit of time looking for anchors here as it looks a bit tricky to get back up. There aren’t any anchors… and none are needed as the climb is much easier than it looks, both down and up. Not long after, I made the same mistake I always make on this route and completely missed the “obvious” Old Roof Traverse leading to Hampstead Heath pitch. Missing this traverse leads one to the head of a wet “pitch”, but nothing to rig off. A quick bit of backtracking and thrutch up later, we were making our way along the traverse. To my mind, the Old Roof Traverse is much worse than the New. Sophie seemed to agree.

Soon we were in the dry passage leading to Hampstead Heath pitch, which was quickly rigged and descended. Meeting the water once again, the traverse to Monastery pitch soon begins. At least this is protected by a rope, initially rigged from a natural thread and then following a long line of anchors. It’s a bit cramped for rigging this section and I was glad to eventually reach the end of the traverse and start heading down the pitch. Just a couple of metres down, I swung into the dry oxbow passage to rig the drier hang. To be honest, we probably could have carried on directly down in view of the low water conditions, but where’s the fun in that?

Everyone loved Monastery pitch. And why wouldn’t they? It is particularly nice. And unusually dry on this occasion. Dave took over the lead, and rigging duties, from here, sliding down the narrow climb (another problem to overcome on our way back up?) and soon reaching Piscine pitch. In no time at all, he had the traverse and pitch rigged and we were all down thrutching, crawling and ducking along the passage to the final pitch (Pinnacle). I always find that this passage goes on a bit longer than I expect, but nothing too bad.

Pinnacle is another great pitch, starting with the customary roped traverse, before dropping down onto a ledge above a pool. Billy made the mistake of abseiling right down to the pool, leaving himself an awkward scramble back up onto the ledge. Forewarned, Sophie made no such mistake. After the ledge, the pitch continues on down into Sink Chamber via various rebelays and/or deviations. Dave expertly rigged this section with 2 rebelays, ignoring the final deviation, which wasn’t necessary in the relatively dry conditions.

Sink Chamber was as far as we could go on this occasion. After a few photos (and, in my case, a bit of looking longingly up at where the Dome rope would have come in), Billy set off out first, followed by Sophie and Dave, with me derigging the bottom 2 pitches.

The narrow climb up to the bottom of Monastery pitch provided a bit of entertainment, but nothing too serious. Dave even provided a convenient sling for use if required. Sophie led up Monastery pitch, with Billy derigging this one. It’s not the easiest pitch to derig, but he did a great (and very quick!) job. Not wanting to be left out, Sophie derigged Hampstead Heath pitch.

Opinion among the team seemed to agree that the Old Roof Traverse was a bit easier on the way out. Is this because the passage floor gets progressively closer as you move forward? Or is the caver simply more used to heights and traversing on the way out?

Billy provided a convenient stepping stone for the next short climb up. Then we were back on familiar territory and heading rapidly toward the surface in no time.

One day I’ll do the Monastery – Dome exchange, but this was more than adequate consolation. Another great evening out with great company.

Photos by Dave.